When Martha Rose Shulman isn’t developing Recipes for Health, she ghost-writes pastry cookbooks. If you’re a fan of Recipes for Health, or any of her cookbooks on healthful eating, you may be confused by this revelation. But, as she wrote in 2013, “I believe in a balanced diet, and sweets have a place in it; a little bit of chocolate can do a world of good.” Enter this delectable hazelnut tart that she adapted from a recipe by the pastry chef Jacquy Pfeiffer, who founded the French Pastry School in Chicago. It is best eaten the day it is made.
For the pâte sablée:
grams all-purpose flour (about 2 1/3 cups), plus more for dusting
grams hazelnut flour (about 1/3 rounded cup)
grams confectioners’ sugar (about 1 cup)
grams French-style 82 percent fat butter, such as Plugrà (6 ounces), plus more for greasing pan, at room temperature
grams fine sea salt (about rounded 1/2 teaspoon)
grams vanilla extract (about 1/2 teaspoon)
grams egg yolk (about 5 yolks)
For the tart:
grams whole hazelnuts, toasted and skinned (about 1/4 cup)
grams hazelnut flour (about 3/4 cup)
grams confectioners’ sugar (about 3/4 cup)
grams cornstarch (about 3/4 teaspoon)
grams cake flour (about 1 teaspoon)
grams French-style 82 percent fat butter, such as Plugrà (2 1/2 ounces), at room temperature
Pinch of sea salt
grams vanilla extract or paste (about 1/2 teaspoon)
grams dark rum (about 1 tablespoon), optional
grams good quality raspberry jam (about 1/2 cup)
grams raspberries (9 ounces or about 2 cups)
Powdered sugar, for dusting
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- Make the pâte sablée: Sift flour, 35 grams hazelnut flour and 110 grams confectioners’ sugar into separate bowls. Place 175 grams butter, 3 grams salt and sifted all-purpose flour in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed until flour and butter just come together. Add sifted hazelnut flour and confectioners’ sugar and mix on low until ingredients are just incorporated. Add vanilla extract and egg yolks and mix on medium just until ingredients come together. Scrape dough out of bowl and press into a 1/2-inch-thick rectangular block. Wrap airtight in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
- Unwrap dough and cut into two equal pieces. Wrap one piece and refrigerate or freeze for use in another tart.
- Butter a 9-inch metal tart pan with a removable bottom very lightly and evenly. (If you can see the butter you have used too much.) Place parchment paper or a Silpat on a work surface and dust lightly with flour. Tap on the dough with a rolling pin to make it pliable. Roll dough out gently to about 1/4-inch thickness, frequently rotating it a quarter turn clockwise. Work quickly so dough doesn’t warm up and become sticky.
- Cut a circle that is 1 1/2 inches larger in diameter than tart pan. (An easy way to do this is to use a larger pan or ring as a guide; set it on top of the dough and cut around it.) Very lightly dust dough with flour; use a pastry brush to remove any excess flour. Wrap dough loosely around rolling pin to lift it up from work surface, then immediately unroll it onto tart pan. Gently guide dough down the sides of the pan, making sure that dough leaves no gap between the bottom edge of the sides of the pan and the bottom. Using a paring knife, trim away excess dough hanging over edges. Refrigerate tart shell, uncovered, for at least 1 hour and preferably overnight.
- Assemble the tart: Heat oven to 325 degrees. Place hazelnuts on a sheet pan lined with parchment and roast for 15 minutes. Remove from oven, cool for 15 minutes and place in a bag. Seal bag and gently roll over nuts with a rolling pin, just to crush them into halves. Set aside.
- Sift together 70 grams hazelnut flour, 70 grams confectioners’ sugar, the cornstarch and the cake flour.
- Place 70 grams butter, pinch of salt and the vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix at medium speed for 1 minute. Turn off machine, scrape down sides of bowl and add hazelnut flour mixture. Mix at medium speed for 1 minute. Gradually add egg and mix at medium speed until incorporated, no more than 2 minutes. Add rum, if using, and mix until incorporated.
- Remove tart shell from refrigerator. With a fork, poke holes in the dough, 1 inch apart. Spoon or pipe hazelnut cream into bottom of shell. Using a small offset spatula, spread in a smooth, even layer.
- Bake tart for 40 minutes, until cream and crust are golden brown and the tip of a paring knife comes out clean when inserted. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes.
- Remove tart from the ring and, with a small offset spatula, spread raspberry jam over surface in an even layer. (If jam is too stiff to spread easily, place it in a small saucepan and warm it slightly first on top of the stove.) Arrange fresh raspberries on jam. Just before serving, distribute roasted hazelnuts among the raspberries and dust with powdered sugar. The tart is best when eaten the day it is made, but can be refrigerated for a day.
- There should be enough dough left over for a second tart shell.
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