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French Lasagne

Nigella Lawson’s recipe for savory baked croissant pudding, which goes by the name of French lasagne in her house, uses up stale croissants by having the cook split and stuff them with ham and cheese, sprinkle more cheese over the top and douse them in eggs beaten with garlic-infused milk. Your croissants need not be…

Croque-Monsieur

While French restaurant and country cooking have been thoroughly examined by American home cooks, somewhere between the two styles lies a branch of cuisine that has been almost entirely missed: France’s bar and cafe food. This is the realm of snacks like tartines and rillettes, salads and savory tarts, and one of most delicious of…

Raspberry Hazelnut Tart

When Martha Rose Shulman isn’t developing Recipes for Health, she ghost-writes pastry cookbooks. If you’re a fan of Recipes for Health, or any of her cookbooks on healthful eating, you may be confused by this revelation. But, as she wrote in 2013, “I believe in a balanced diet, and sweets have a place in it;…

Fennel Gratin

This rich, elegant gratin, adapted from the chef Naomi Pomeroy’s book “Taste and Technique,” brings together braised fennel, Gruyère sauce and crisp bread crumbs, with outrageously delicious results. As with many recipes in this highly instructive book, this gratin is more labor intensive than what you may expect — coarse bread crumbs are toasted and…

Buttery French TV Snacks

Good butter is the key to these easy, delectable cookies. Before the pastry chef Anita Chu began work on her “Field Guide to Cookies” (Quirk Books), she was a Berkeley-trained structural engineer with a baking habit she couldn’t shake. One of her favorite cookies is the croq-télé, or TV snack, a chunky cookie she adapted…

Cassoulet

Cooking is not always about simplicity and ease. Sometimes what you want in the kitchen is a project, a culinary jigsaw puzzle to solve. There is no greater one than cassoulet. I developed the recipe that follows at the shoulder of Phillipe Bertineau, the chef at Alain Ducasse’s Benoit bistro in New York City: rich…

Spanish French Toast

There is French toast, and then there are torrijas, the Spanish version. The origins of both are undoubtedly the same: yet another way to make good use of bread that’s no longer fresh. Though torrijas, like French toast, can be served at breakfast, they can also be a knockout dessert. Ingredients Olive oil as needed…

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